Lake Titicaca covers 3,305 square miles
of the southern highlands (altiplano) of Peru,
on the border between Peru and Bolivia. It is the largest
lake in South America, and at 11,500 feet above sea level,
the largest lake in the world above 6,500 feet. At this
altitude the lake shines an iridescent blue through the
clear sunlight - a beautiful complement to the red and
brown-hued hills of the altiplano. The combination makes
quite an enchanting picture, and a welcome sight after
a long train ride to
Puno.
In contrast, the city of Puno, Peru's major port on
Lake Titicaca, is a rather drab sight. What it lacks in
visual appeal, however, it makes up for in vibrancy and
color of local custom. Puno is known as the folklore capitol
of Peru. It boasts up to 300 different types of traditional
dances, many of which are performed in the streets during
annual festivals. A good one to catch in early November
is Puno week, which celebrates the legendary birth of
the first Inca, Manco Capac, and his sister, Mama Ocllo.
According to legend the pair rose up out of the Lake Titicaca
in search of a place to establish the Inca empire.
The legend is an apt one, as the fertile environment
of Lake Titicaca supports many habitats, human and animal.
One of the most interesting cultures you'll find on the
lake is that of the Uros people (Los Uros), whose
entire community and lifestyle are literally built upon
the totora reeds that grow in the ample shallows of the
lake. Centuries ago the Uros struck out for the middle
of the lake to escape the warring Inca and Colla tribes
on the shore. They live on over 40 floating
reed islands that are maintained by continually
adding fresh totora reeds to the top, even as they rot
away from the bottom. The Uros live in reed huts, travel
in reed boats, and sell handicrafts woven from reeds.
The largest island supports
many buildings, including a small museum with a collection
of stuffed birds and animals. Embroidered textile souvenirs
and models of reed boats are displayed on the island grounds,
and you can often see carrache
(small lake fish) drying in the sun. Today around 300
Uros people continue to live in this floating community.
In addition to the floating islands, there are many real islands in Lake Titicaca that are worth visiting.
The island of Taquile, four hours from Puno by boat, offers a beautiful, if rustic, escape from the relative
urban bustle of Puno. The men of Taquile, who pilot the boats that transport tourists from Puno to Taquile
island, are easily recognized by their nightcap-like woolen hats, which they are constantly knitting. On
the island, you will find quaint squares, rolling trails, a few pre-Inca ruins, simple houses and terraces,
gorgeous scenery, and not much else. The island does not have electricity, roads, cars, hotels, or dogs.
Island families will welcome you to stay a night in their home, or you can walk a ways to the far side of
the island and camp. The view of the Cordillera Real mountain range across the huge, silent lake is worth
the trip.
