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 Essentially a series of rugged volcanic peaks and valleys covered with thick vegetation, Dominica's terrain boasts more than 300 rivers and a multitude of lakes, falls, pools, and hot springs. Since most of the island's attractions are found "out there," you'll want to hire a driver or rent a car to get to the good stuff. Island Car Rentals (Virtual Dominica) offers a very reasonably priced "fly-drive" package including car and hotel rental, road maps, and 24-hour emergency service. Dominica's roads are fairly well maintained, but extremely curvy and lacking shoulders. Directional signs are a novelty at best. Bring your map, and drive with caution and patience. You'll be rewarded with an up-close view of 289 square miles of rugged, absolute beauty.  Emerald Pool, home to the Forest Thrush, Plumbeous Warbler, and Blue-headed Hummingbird, is shown above. The Imperial parrot, right, and the Jacquot parrot are native to Dominica and not found anywhere else in the world.
Dominica's Imperial parrot
There's no better way to experience the fantastic flora and fauna of Dominica than by staying in the thick of it. Papillote Mountain Retreat (www.papillote.dm) is a gorgeous four acres of wilderness, botanical gardens, hot spring pools, walkways, and charming cottages. The Rainforest Restaurant and terrace serve up excellent organic food, and an even better view of the mountainside. Wander the walkways, hike to nearby Trafalgar Falls, relax in the birdwatcher's hut, or simply find your very own spot in the sun and revel in it.
At 2,500 feet in elevation, Freshwater Lake is accessible via a 2.5-mile drive up a former carriage road. This crater lake lies at the base of Morne Micotrin, in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park. Also in the park are Boeri Lake, and Boiling Lake, a scalding hot kettle fueled by volcanic gases escaping from molten lava deep below its surface.
The route to Trafalgar Falls is a moderate hike over a marked trail. Land crabs are likely to scurry across your path.  Bright orange and black, they will rear up and display their claws in self-defense, as they back away from danger.
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