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 he history of the Caribbean is one of nearly continuous exchange of occupation and ownership, from original invasion by the Carib Indians, to colonial control and slave labor, to independence and the struggle for economic stability.
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Dominica is no exception, and retains much evidence of its historical beginnings.
The northeast section of the island is home to 3,500 descendants
of the original inhabitants of the island, who live in the Carib
Territory. The Caribs have maintained their traditional basket-weaving
and canoe-making skills, but otherwise live much the same as most
other islanders, working mainly in agriculture and fishing.
On the east coast of the Carib Territory is L'Escalier Tete Chien (the trail of the snake staircase), shown above. According to Carib legend this volcanic lava flow tumbling into the ocean marks the place that a giant snake-god entered Dominica, after swimming across the sea from South America. The small islets off the coast were said to transform into canoes at night to carry spirits back to the homeland.
Dominica was hit hard by Hurricane David in 1979, Hugo in 1989, and in one extraordinary three-week stretch in 1995, it endured Luis, Iris, and Marilyn. Evidence of Marilyn can be seen in Prince Rupert Bay at Portsmouth, above, where ships still lay stranded against the shore. Near Portsmouth is the exotic Indian River, whose shores are lined with twisted Mangroves, coconut trees, ferns, and bananas. The river supports dozens of fish and bird species, and many colorful villages.
The Fort Shirley military complex in Cabrits National Park testifies to Dominica's colonial era. Built by the British between 1770 and 1815, the fort once housed 500 men, and included batteries, guard houses, powder magazines, storehouses, kitchens, stables, and troops barracks. The officers quarters are shown above. Thirty-five 32-pounder cannons with a range of one and one-half miles once defended the region, and 17 of them still lie within the garrison.
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