Known as the liveliest city
in Ecuador's Central Sierra, Riobamba has old colonial
charm, with cobbled streets, pastel-colored buildings,
stately squares, and an overflowing Saturday market. The
city is also a staging point for various excursions, including
mountain-bike tours, the Parque Nacional Sangay wilderness
area, the Chimburazo volcano, and the Nariz del Diablo
(Devil's Nose) train ride.
Before embarking on a side trip, a stroll around the
city is worth your while. The Parque Maldonado is a large
square area rimmed by nineteenth-century architecture.
Facing the park is the city's cathedral and the Municipio,
where Ecuador's first constitution was signed. Several
other parks throughout the city provide a welcome respite
from walking.
The Monasterio de las Conceptas is one of the best museums
of eighteenth-century religious art outside Quito, and
many list it as a must-see. As in many Ecuadorian cities,
food stalls offer welcome breaks for strollers,
day and night.
The Nariz del Diablo
train ride is a favorite of many tourists, who often
travel on the roof of the train, to the amusement of locals.
It's roughly a four or five-hour ride, depending on whether
you get off at the town of Alausi or at Sibambe. The ride
takes you through every climate zone in the land, starting
in the cool high lands, going through the cloud forest,
and ending in the hot coastal jungle. The train remarkably
descends caboose first and mounts the cliffs by means
of switchbacks with thrilling twists and turns, offering
spectacular views of Chimurazo and a thrilling descent
down the Devil's Nose, a 45-degree gradient. El Nino storms
battered the tracks in 1997-98, but after reconstruction
the train ride has become one of the most popular tourist
activities in Ecuador, departing
several times a week. Refreshments are available at
the many short stops along the way.
Things to avoid: Getting caught in the weather changes
and becoming uncomfortable while riding the Nariz del
Diablo train. (Dress in layers for the differing climates
and bring a sleeping bag or similar to sit on.
Also, to avoid disappointment, check the schedule, which
can be unpredictable, and buy your ticket the evening
before to avoid long lines.)
